A hot cup of filter coffee is something I have learned to savour in the recent years. If it’s served strong and frothy in a davara the joy in enjoying every sip is doubled. But I must confess that I did not really delve into the intricacies of how coffee is made. Despite being passionate about agriculture, wrapping one’s head around coffee plantations seemed a gargantuan task.
A hot cup of filter coffee is something I have learned to savour in the recent years. If it’s served strong and frothy in a davara the joy in enjoying every sip is doubled. But I must confess that I did not really delve into the intricacies of how coffee is made. Despite being passionate about agriculture, wrapping one’s head around coffee plantations seemed a gargantuan task.
Earlier this month a road trip had a few of us meeting up at an altitude of 3500 feet, at a coffee estate in Chickmagalur. We entered what is known as a coffee corridor which consists of thick vegetation comprising of coffee shrubs, pepper vines and arecanut palms. With the recent rains the whole area was lush and vibrant, with pristine waterfalls adding to the scenic beauty.
A bumpy jeep ride through the inside of the plantation was a complete revelation. The source is a far cry from the dark roasted coffee beans which we identify with as ‘coffee’.
The beans are nestled inside the coffee fruit, referred to as the coffee cherry or cherry because of it’s shape and resemblance to the red berry of the same name, though it’s much smaller.
Our visit coincided with coffee cherry picking season. The recent rainfall having been more excessive than usual, delayed the ripening of the fruit, we were told. So the clusters that were peeking out of the leaves had some berries which were red, some an in-between colour and the rest which were green. The plants also had a few flowers yet to turn into fruit. Coffee flowers are the exact opposite in colour and fragrance of the roasted coffee bean. They are stark white, delicate and have a jasmine like aroma.
Coffee plantations, we were told, concentrate on cultivating, mainly two varieties, the Arabica and the Robusta. Out of the two it’s the Arabica which fetches a premium and is sought after by coffee buyers and coffee connoisseurs worldwide. Our coffee hosts are working equally hard determined to bring out the best flavour profile that their Robusta cherries have to offer. The name Robusta has to do with the robustness of this species of coffee plants. The leaves and trunk are large and portray a more solid appearance than that of the Arabica.
The women picking the fruit are taught the nuances of picking. A great deal of work goes into the segregation of the coffee cherries and post harvest is crucial in delivering a top quality grade of coffee bean. The women with their colourful sarees and cheery smiles go about their work with practiced ease. Nimble fingers make quick work going from plant to the bags tied at their waist.
We watched as the estate manager, squashed a fruit to reveal two coffee beans inside. The outer skin is thick, similar to that of a sakkarai palam (Jamaica cherry) which grows here in Coimbatore. The coffee beans have a sticky pulp around them. The fruit tastes sweet and we were told that buyers often taste the fruit at the estate and determine from which lot they want to choose from after harvest. We marveled at the well trained palate which can distinguish the difference in taste from one fruit to the other.
There are various processes which happen after harvest. The more familiar kinds are ; washed, natural and honey coffee. The berries are first segregated into ripe and green. The green berries are just left to dry and sold in the domestic market. Here in India it is referred to as ‘cherry’ (grade). It is sold at a lesser rate and people sometimes add it to their blends to bring the cost down.
The ripe coffee berries when dried with the skin and pulp make for the natural coffee bean. It keeps the fruit flavours in the bean intact and the pulp is removed mechanically after the beans have dried. This fetches a premium in the export market. The director of marketing who is also trained in quality control, ensures that the berries dry slowly and are not exposed to the scorching rays of the sun which may burn the outside. Large expanses of concrete area are fitted with shade nets for even drying.
For wet processing, the fruit is de-pulped. The beans are washed and fermented in vats and washed again thoroughly to remove the outer sticky coating (mucilage) before drying. This process takes a few days and has to be done diligently. Apparently this leads to a more balanced and complex taste profile and what is known as a ‘cleaner’ cup. Once it is dried the outer skin is removed, exposing the green bean which is sold in the domestic market or exported.
The ‘honey coffee’ (I love the name) is a process where the fruit and pulp are removed but the sticky mucilage is left intact and is dried. This gives a golden coating to the bean, thereby giving it the apt name.
During all these processes one doesn’t get even the slightest whiff of the coffee aroma which we all know and love. Apparently this happens only when the beans are roasted; the beans then go from pale to the dark ‘coffee bean’ colour.
Roasted coffee beans hold on to their aroma for a short while. The green coffee beans can last upto a year in that state. Hence the term ‘freshly roasted and ground coffee’. For people like me who are curious to know, the instant coffee, is a mix of blends and processes which are not as intense as the speciality coffees.
The Blue Tokai brand sells premium Indian coffees grown in the South Of India, with Veer Attikan coffee being one of their best sellers. They have ventured into speciality coffee cafés across the country and also sell on amazon.
It was an incredible revelation to understand the labour intensive process that the little red cherry goes through before becoming a hot cup of our much favoured brew. The coffee estates are also largely self sufficient because of being far removed from the towns. So the workers and families are provided with basic medical care and several initiatives to educate their children. If you ever want to experience a top of the line blend, do know that it’s worth every rupee!