My tryst with tender coconut happened at a very young age. My earliest memory is of visiting our ancestral farm with my parents,sitting cross legged and being handed one half of a freshly split young coconut to snack on.Having comfortably settled it on my small lap,I was then handed a a spoon of sorts fashioned out of a thick wedge from the top of the same green coconut.It left me most fascinated
My tryst with tender coconut happened at a very young age. My earliest memory is of visiting our ancestral farm with my parents,sitting cross legged and being handed one half of a freshly split young coconut to snack on. Having comfortably settled it on my small lap, I was then handed a a spoon of sorts fashioned out of a thick wedge from the top of the same green coconut. It left me most fascinated
I was taught how to exert just enough pressure to coax the soft white meat off from the shallow hollows which earlier held the elaneer or tender coconut water. The white flesh consisted of various textures;some bits were coarse and had a bite to it while others were more jelly like and slid down the throat effortlessly. Back then this was not a ritual that anyone may have considered writing about,simply because almost every child of my generation was exposed to it, particularly in the summer months.
Today however I can say with absolute surety that the task of drinking the tender coconut water straight from the kernel without a straw is in itself a rarity with the younger lot. There are fewer still who understand the enjoyment that is felt at slurping up the tender flesh afterwards. I’m not sure if it’s my generation of parents who are to blame for reducing this custom to one of rare novelty or does it have to do with the disconnect from our environment !?!
Coming back to the tender coconut flesh, I wonder if it is an acquired taste or one that comes naturally to most of us growing up in these parts. The reason for this thought is I have yet to see a single post until now be it on social media of any from the younger generation heralding the onset of summer by feasting on a tender coconut! With countless posts on cold smoothies and fat free icecreams, one post on this naturally cooling food isn’t much to expect now is it ?!
That aside, while I continued feasting on this unique food (high in minerals and salts) all through my growing up years, it wasn’t until a couple of years ago that I even began to think of it as an ingredient that could be cooked with. More than the tender coconut souffle’ and payasam the recipe that truly piqued my interest was the elaneer kozhambhu.Not only was it a recipe that was handed down for several generations, it was also very local in terms of ingredients used and style of cooking.
It’s a prime example of food cooked keeping in mind the weather conditions and seasonal bounty. This was a great way to make use of the excess tender coconuts that were harvested. It’s also very light on digestion and makes for a delicious accompaniments to have alongside the daily rice staples. Try this recipe and reap the benefits of including sustainable local foods in your daily diet.
Elaneer Kozhambhu
Tender coconut water- 4-5 C
Tender coconut pieces- 2 C
Small onions-1 C sliced
Garlic – 10 cloves sliced
Black peppercorns- 1 tsp whole
Cumin-1/2 tsp
Saunf- 1 Tbsp
Coriander powder- 6 tsps
Cold pressed coconut oil-1 Tbsp +1 tsp for tempering
Curry leaves, dried red chillies for tempering
Salt to taste
Method
Masala- In 1Tbsp of oil , saute’ the saunf, peppercorns and cumin. Add the onions and garlic and fry until translucent.Take off fire and let cool. Grind to a paste adding the coriander powder and 1 Tbsp of tender coconut water.Set aside.
Heat oil in a deep vessel, add the curry leaves and dried red chillies .After it splutters, add the ground masala and saute’ for a few minutes. Add the remaining tender coconut water and let cook on a slow fire for 6-8 minutes until flavours come together. Add salt. Check seasoning and adjust.
Add the tender coconut pieces and let simmer for a few minutes. Take off fire.